Eivissa or Ibiza (pronounced, “E” biza”, not “I”biza) is one of five Balearic islands. Strategically located in the the Mediterranean Sea, close to the coast of Spain, it has been populated by many civilizations, from early settlers dating back to 2000b.c., to the Phoenicians and Punics, Romans, Arabs and even pirates! Since then, several generations of Spaniards and their ancestors have called Ibiza home. Hippies began to emigrate to the island in the 1960s and 1970s, ravers discovered it in the 80s, and DJs call it home today – the unique demographic that makes Ibiza special.
The island is approximately 572 km2, one-sixth the size of Mallorca but larger than Menorca, Formentera, and Cabrera, with a resident population of 130,000, which increases dramatically during the most heavily visited months of July and August to a 1 million.
The topography varies dramatically with valleys and hills , the highest is Sa Talaia in San Jose, and the only river in the archipielago. The lush vegetation includes citrus, almond, olive and carob trees, and vivid splashes of colour from bougainvillea. Ibiza (town), San Jose, Santa Eulalia (del Rio) and San Antonio (Abad) make up the largest communities on the island of Ibiza.
Ibiza and Formentera, the island adjacent to Ibiza, complement one another wonderfully, and to me, the sum of the parts far outweigh a single island alone. Ibiza is green and lush with jagged rocks piercing up from the sea, like the magnificent Es Vedra with its magnetic qualities; Formentera has spectacular white sand beaches, like Illetas. Together they form the Pitiusa Islands.
Ibiza continues to thrive as a destination for sun, music, Mediterranean sea, lovely beaches and rustic landscape. Though July and August are the most active months on the island, May, June, September and October tend to be the most special. If you enjoy July and August, treat yourself by going to Ibiza during other months.
To enjoy the best of Ibiza and Formentera, travel by car and boat to see different parts of the island from land and by sea. Don’t get caught out by staying local during your entire visit. Explore.
A few of my simple rules for the island . . . take them or leave them.
Breakfast is when you like it before mid-day, but lunch is generally NOT before 14.00 or 14.30, and dinner is generally NOT before 22.00 or better still, 22.30, to enjoy the local dynamics.
The regional dishes of paella and fideuá should be eaten for lunch, not dinner, better on the beach, than not, due to richness. Paella de bogavante (lobster) is best at Es Moli de Sal in Formentera. Ask for the bogavante to be cleaned and shelled (a la ciega), a great luxury at no added price at Es Moli; the best fideuá is at Es Torrent in Ibiza, as agreed to by the Groucho Club's honorary chairman in Ibiza, Don José Colomar. (The local lobster is very expensive but amazing. Canadian lobster is fine, as a substitute and much cheaper, and most commonly used in these dishes.)
When on the beach and ordering paella, fideuá (which uses short-cut, vermicelli-like noodles instead of the rice used in paella, combined with seafood) or fresh fish . . . for large groups, order one or two portions less than the number of adults in the lunch party. This ensures that food will not be wasted. Beach portions tend to be large, and food is expensive on the beach. Good materia prima comes at a price.
When on the beach (at places like Es Torrent, El Chiringuito de Es Cavallet, Es Moli d’ Sal, Juan y Andrea), the local shrimp (gambas ibicencas) are well worth the price, as they are sweet and salty, a taste one does not often find with shrimp in other parts of the world. Don’t overindulge, as it will dampen the experience. Must tries, as well, are espardenyes or sea cucumbers and raiones (see below).
I always prefer to enjoy a long lunch, followed by a siesta or swim, as required.
Dinner is more about the show, the ambience and the night-life than the food, for me. Granted, food is good, but it is not as good as dining out at night in New York, Madrid, Barcelona or London.
The best Spanish white wine served locally to complement lunch or dinner is Belondrade y Lurton. The wine is 100% verdejo grapes, full bodied with nice citrus and a bit of fennel. Belondrade also makes Quinta Apolonia, a white also worth enjoying but less full bodied. Jose Pariente is another provider of good Spanish white whites. Though locals are aggressively marketing the Ibizencan wines, they are not particularly interesting. Try, if you like, but there is work to be done before they are worth drinking over Belondrade or Jose Pariente.
Regarding reservations, one MUST book well in advance for restaurants and beach venues, particularly in July and August. When booking on the beach, make sure you book sun loungers (hamacas) when you book your table. At some places, like Es Torrent, you will be asked to order your main course for the group one day in advance. Don’t fret, see notes below.
Don’t even attempt to drive after a few drinks. Taxis and car services are readily available nowadays and, as the roads are very dark at night around the island, it just is not worth it. During July and August, the regional police, La Guardia Civil, set breathalyzer points at the roundabouts outside Ibiza, Santa Eulalia and San Antonio.
Sundays in August are a good day to stay local, recuperate from Saturday night and enjoy the pool, as the beaches are incredibly crowded by tourists and locals.
IBIZA (TOWN)
Dalt Vila
Dalt Villa
To dine in history – and a UNESCO world cultural heritage site - within the walls the old town of Dalt Vila my preference remains El Olivo (over La Oliva). Before dinner, I recommend walking through Dalt Vila to see the Cathedral and the Museum of Contemporary Art of Ibiza. No need for directions, as Dalt Vila is small and signs are everywhere – just walk to the top. A pre-dinner drink could be had at the Cocktail Bar at the hotel Mirador de Dalt Vila. Boutiques selling a range of wares from the truly artisanal to the frankly tacky are dotted around the route.
Hotel Mirador
An offseason favorite in Ibiza just below the old town is Ca N’Alfredo, specializing in Mediterranean and Ibicencan dishes. Call +34 917311274
For tapas - just on the main square of Ibiza town - Vara del Rey, where the Viceroy lived and governed in his day, is La Cava, a place that is a must for those that want tapas and a good glass of wine. It is adjacent to the hotel Montesol, a local landmark (due to location, more than luxury). Call +34 97131 6074
Marinas – Ibiza Nueva, Botafoch
The best show in town . . . LIO, translated into English as a “mess” might have been so, when Pacha owner Ricardo Urgell, and Chief Artistic Director, Francisco Ferrer, and team created Lio to open in 2011, but it is now the most dynamic show/supper club on the island. It is located on the old site of el Divino in Ibiza Nueva marina, with stunning views of Dalt Vila and the Marina. It brings out a beautiful and eclectic crowd to see top singers, dancers and acrobats. Food is solid, but the show, music, ambience and service is what you are going for; my personal favorites are the salmon and the braised meat. Call +34 971310022
Cipriani opened this season in Ibiza, as Downtown Ibiza, and is located in the Gran Hotel.
Cipriani
The fact that owner Guiseppe Cipriani, and long time maitre from New York, London and Istanbul, Mauro Manfe, have moved to the island, suggests that this is not for the short term even though the Ibiza high-season is a short one. It has the traditional Cipriani menu with the added interest of good quality sushi. The décor is very tasteful, like being in a classic Italian boat, think Riva, and the service is the best I have seen on the island, bar none (they imported a lot of staff both in the front of house and back.). With such management, food, service and a cosmopolitan crowd, it is a required visit during one’s stay. Call +34 971599050
The Botafoch Marina includes a number of restaurants and shops. The best restaurants are Madrigal, owned and operated by an owner of Juan y Andrea (Formentera) with a magical view of Dalt Vila, and Trattoria del Mare, as sadly La Raspa has closed (Denis, Rest in Peace.) Madrigal focuses on the best of the Mediterranean and Spain. My favorites include the anchovies to start, followed by either sea bass (lubina) or sea bream (dorada) baked in salt, e.g. lubina a la sal or dorada a la sal. Call +34 971 311 107 Trattoria is, as the name suggests, good Italian fare in a waterside environment, al fresco.
Pacha needs no introduction, and the go-to night this summer is Thursday with David Guetta. If you are feeling like Sushi, Pacha’s sushi restaurant, Shushi Lounge, is a good pre-party option.
Pacha
JUST OUT OF TOWN (IBIZA)
On the road from Ibiza to Santa Eulalia, turn off towards Santa Gertrudis
Ama Lur has that magical mix of setting, food and service, that makes it a must visit in Ibiza. The food is more typically Basque, where the owners are from. Juan Felix, Emilio and their team, who have worked several years together are family to us, and Ama Lur has been the site of many special family occasions. My personal favorites are grilled grouper (mero), hake (merluza) or carpaccio. Keep it simple, and stay away from Juan Felix’s version of a martini. It is a killer. Call +34 971314554
Another enjoyable place is La Masia d’en Sort, for an evening dinner al fresco. They specialize in grilled meat and fish. Think good steak.
COUNTRYSIDE
Central
A visit to Santa Gertrudis for a morning coffee or a casual dinner is highly recommended. It is one of the most picturesque village squares in Ibiza (La Plaza de Santa Gertrudis). You can’t go wrong with any of the cafes in front of the local church in the late morning, early evening or ahead of the weekly Sunday noon mass for coffee and toast with tomato (pan con tomate). For dinner, Macao Café, an Italian trattoria, serves some of the island’s best Italian food. Sunday nights are particularly enjoyable on the outdoor terrace, but ensure to book well ahead of time. Their veal Milanese is top notch. This is a great venue to take children.
Another local favourite for Italian served in a setting among the trees with vegetables used from the restaurant's own garden is La Paloma, located in the lovely village of San Lorenzo. La Paloma is a good alternative with small children, as the staff, some English, some Spanish, some Italian, some Argentine, is very child-friendly.
North, North-East
San Carlos is another picturesque village, my favorite I admit, one that is made up of the local church, a bar - the famous Bar Anita, a bank, a few shops and a nice playground for children. It is very much worth a visit, particularly if one is visiting the hippy market at Las Dalias or heading to one of the picturesque beaches in the North (Cala Boix). Bar Anita is worth a visit for local hierbas, a liquor typical of the island. The food is very average and the service is too, so best for hierbas or late morning coffee, not much more.
A stone’s throw from San Carlos and behind Las Dalias hippy market is Can Curreu, in my opinion the nicest country agroturismo hotel on the island. For those not staying there, dinner is worthwhile. The food is good, the wine list decent and served in a serene and very pretty setting. Can Curreu is a good option for a night, that one wants some downtime from the energy of Ibiza (town).
For the carnivore, who enjoys good, simple meat and potatoes (but local potatoes and Spanish beef), Cami de Balafia, is a must. It is located north of Ibiza (town), on the road to San Juan and worth the trip for a quiet dinner.
North-West
For the Spanish tortilla lover, a visit to Can Cosme in Santa Ines will make you happy, though expect a no-frills experience, possibly best reserved for an off-season visit.
Can Cosmi
West
For pre- or post-dinner drinks, KM5 is a local favorite along the road to San Jose at km 5.6, outside Ibiza (town).
KM5
BEACHES
South
As beach restaurants (chiringuitos) go, my favorite is Es Torrent (San Jose, South. Call +34 971802160 , for its food, staff and the fact that due to the small cove, it can not get overly crowded (a problem in August in places like Las Salinas). As a result, booking 3-4 days in advance during July and August is a must. Here they will ask for your entrée 1 day before arrival, and the fideua is the best on the island. For a lighter meal, one can ask for lubina or dorada a la sal. Begin the meal with gambas ibicencas and raiones, a local fish caught in late August/early September, pan fried. Order your hamacas, when you book your reservation. Pepe is the man to know for hamacas on the beach. You cannot miss him in his yellow shirt and bronzed skin. For surfers, this is the place for some waves in Ibiza but best in May and October.
As far as beach restaurants and beaches go, my children’s favorite is Tropicana on Cala Jondal (cala means cove) where owner, Antonio, and Leo, who manages the beach, make for a great family day out. Here I prefer fresh fish. The paddle boats are favorites for young children. Note - best price for Belondrade at any chiringuito. Call +34 629348012, a must see.
The lovely cove of Cala Jondal (San Jose, post Airport, South), has several other beach options in addition to Tropicana, the sandiest and most child friendly beach, such as the glitzy Blue Marlin, a relatively new restaurant that attracts those yearning for the music of Ibiza by day, where the deck chairs are lined up nearly on top of one another in what seems to be incalculable rows. Blue Marlin is worth a visit, food is solid, music good, but not great if you have children in tow. Sundays are the most popular, but expect to be charged large minimum spends per beach chair. Call +34 971410117
Es Xarcu is a beach shack, but a very good beach shack, just around the bend from Cala Jondal, in the direction of Porroig. The beach is limited, so don't expect a prime swim location, but do expect excellent food, dining almost literally over the water. Though it is a shack, do not expect an inexpensive meal. In fact, many criticize that it is too expensive for a beach shack, but one can be selective with what to eat and drink. Here the gambas ibicencas are good, but pricey.
El Chiringuito des Cavallet (Es Cavallet, South) serves a great lunch with food that is more oriented towards creative Mediterranean than local rustic. In design it is more typical of the South of France than Ibiza - - - white, white, white. Well worth a visit for lunch, but the beach area is not one of Ibiza’s best, as it tends to get an accumulation of seaweed – and is also a nudist beach. It is worth a visit for beach volleyball enthusiasts, as well. Award for the best car park team on the island led by Javi. Call +34 971395355
Sa Caleta beach (San Jose, South) and its local restaurant are picturesque, a recognizable Mediterranean scene. Expect rustic and very pretty. If you want to get away from Ibiza scene for a local one, this is one place to do so.
West
For a view of the magical rocks of Es Vedra, even prettier by boat, lunch at Es Boldado along Cala D’ Hort (San Jose, Southwest) is special and serene. Local fresh fish and seafood, fished along the Ibicencan coast, combined with local produce is a perfect combination.
For those that like to set out and explore, the beaches in the west of the island, I recommend Cala Vadella, good for kids, Cala Codolar and Cala Tarida. Food varies at each, though.
North, North-East
For a local beach day in the north (East of San Carlos, once you pass Bar Anita) with great food and no hype, the combination of Cala Boix and La Noria is one of my favorites. Though there are several stairs down to the beach, it is a picturesque spot for a swim. Follow the swim up with fresh fish at La Noria with service by Juan Antonio and magical views over the sea – all around great value.
S’Illot is located in one of the most picturesque coves in the island, Cala Xuclar, located between Cala Xaracca and the town of Portinatx at the most northern point of the island. S'Illot is nothing fancy, which is its charm. The beach just below the restaurant is a must for those that like to swim and snorkel with the fish. If you reach Portinatx, you have gone too far; it is, unfortunately, a town that has been overdeveloped and detracts from the island's beauty (like Es Cana and San Antonio).
For those that want to explore the beaches in the North and find a good swimming hole, I recommend Cala D’en Serra, as well, though the beach restaurant is not comparable to La Noria or those in the South. Enjoy the swims and scenery.
Formentera
Gorgeous Formentera
Formentera is priceless, particularly the beach of Illetas, a long white sandy beach. There are two alternatives for travel, private boats, which can be chartered in Marina Botafoch, as well as the Marina de Santa Eulalia or by ferry from Ibiza. The ideal is by private boat, so that one can explore the many coves of Formentera or swim off the rock of Espalmador, but for a first visit (and repeats), the ferry is a simple, reasonable option, that I find useful, particularly with smaller children, that get sea-sick. It takes but 25 minutes from port to port and leaves out of the port of Ibiza, conveniently located nearly across from the new town car park.
My favorite restaurants are two, depending upon one’s mood.
For “I want priceless views of the Mediterranean sea and Ibiza with white linens, outstanding food and service”, I recommend Es Moli de Sal, owned and operated by Jonny, a wonderful host. Call +34 971187491.
Es Moli de Sal
I first went nearly 12 years ago, but until this summer I had not been back in the last 6 years. I was back this July, twice. It has the best paella de bogavante in the Pitiusas, for me, and a lovely little cove to bath after lunch – no sandy beach, though.
For “I want my feet in the sand” effect . . . there is no better place than Juan y Andrea. My first visit was 15 years ago, and a lot has changed. It has been found by the very big yachts. The restaurant has become the go-to restaurant in Formentera, for everyone looking for celebrities and pretty faces. It remains a wonderful place, though, as it is on an incomparable white beach, where in front the water is blue and clear, like the Caribbean. You will still eat well, but times have changed, and I have found that one needs to set expectations on food and service, as it can vary, from outstanding to average, depending on the day and the mood of the kitchen and staff. Juanjo, now managing the front of house since his older brother Andres opened Madrigal in Ibiza, remains a wonderful host. Children will enjoy the shallow water and the electric boats, managed by Tano. Call +34 371787130
SHOPPING
There are a handful of special places to shop in Ibiza, but the most special are at those places where you can find something, that you cannot find in London or New York.
Nino d’Agata is a very talented goldsmith, making some beautiful pieces. He creates his own collection, but the most fun is to design something with Nino for him to create in bespoke fashion. Nino is located in La Plaza de la Iglesia de Santa Gertrudis and only open selectively from 11-2 and 8-10PM.
The old port area of Ibiza town is worth a visit to browse among shops that are often unique to the island. Ibiza has its own fashion council called Moda Adlib (motto – dress how you like but dress tastefully) which supports a cottage industry of designers and producers that work with white cotton and lace to produce flowy and ethereal numbers that perfectly complement the boho vibe on the island. Several designers have shops in this neighbourhood.
Campos de Ibiza
Other quirky shops to look out for are the Sandal shop – which works leather, Campos de Ibiza, which has tried to bottle the essence of the island into bath products and candles and Ganesha – whose owner Vicente imports fabrics from India and reworks them into wraps and dresses, as well as selling vintage clothing that might include a matador costume. You’ll also stumble across several places selling baskets and espadrilles and other local handiwork.
All of this in addition, of course, to Spanish high-street stars like Mango and Zara and boutiques such as Galy, Mayurka and Arias that carry global designer brands – carefully edited for the Ibiza wow factor.
R. Enserro
The island is approximately 572 km2, one-sixth the size of Mallorca but larger than Menorca, Formentera, and Cabrera, with a resident population of 130,000, which increases dramatically during the most heavily visited months of July and August to a 1 million.
The topography varies dramatically with valleys and hills , the highest is Sa Talaia in San Jose, and the only river in the archipielago. The lush vegetation includes citrus, almond, olive and carob trees, and vivid splashes of colour from bougainvillea. Ibiza (town), San Jose, Santa Eulalia (del Rio) and San Antonio (Abad) make up the largest communities on the island of Ibiza.
Ibiza and Formentera, the island adjacent to Ibiza, complement one another wonderfully, and to me, the sum of the parts far outweigh a single island alone. Ibiza is green and lush with jagged rocks piercing up from the sea, like the magnificent Es Vedra with its magnetic qualities; Formentera has spectacular white sand beaches, like Illetas. Together they form the Pitiusa Islands.
Ibiza continues to thrive as a destination for sun, music, Mediterranean sea, lovely beaches and rustic landscape. Though July and August are the most active months on the island, May, June, September and October tend to be the most special. If you enjoy July and August, treat yourself by going to Ibiza during other months.
To enjoy the best of Ibiza and Formentera, travel by car and boat to see different parts of the island from land and by sea. Don’t get caught out by staying local during your entire visit. Explore.
A few of my simple rules for the island . . . take them or leave them.
Breakfast is when you like it before mid-day, but lunch is generally NOT before 14.00 or 14.30, and dinner is generally NOT before 22.00 or better still, 22.30, to enjoy the local dynamics.
The regional dishes of paella and fideuá should be eaten for lunch, not dinner, better on the beach, than not, due to richness. Paella de bogavante (lobster) is best at Es Moli de Sal in Formentera. Ask for the bogavante to be cleaned and shelled (a la ciega), a great luxury at no added price at Es Moli; the best fideuá is at Es Torrent in Ibiza, as agreed to by the Groucho Club's honorary chairman in Ibiza, Don José Colomar. (The local lobster is very expensive but amazing. Canadian lobster is fine, as a substitute and much cheaper, and most commonly used in these dishes.)
When on the beach and ordering paella, fideuá (which uses short-cut, vermicelli-like noodles instead of the rice used in paella, combined with seafood) or fresh fish . . . for large groups, order one or two portions less than the number of adults in the lunch party. This ensures that food will not be wasted. Beach portions tend to be large, and food is expensive on the beach. Good materia prima comes at a price.
When on the beach (at places like Es Torrent, El Chiringuito de Es Cavallet, Es Moli d’ Sal, Juan y Andrea), the local shrimp (gambas ibicencas) are well worth the price, as they are sweet and salty, a taste one does not often find with shrimp in other parts of the world. Don’t overindulge, as it will dampen the experience. Must tries, as well, are espardenyes or sea cucumbers and raiones (see below).
I always prefer to enjoy a long lunch, followed by a siesta or swim, as required.
Dinner is more about the show, the ambience and the night-life than the food, for me. Granted, food is good, but it is not as good as dining out at night in New York, Madrid, Barcelona or London.
The best Spanish white wine served locally to complement lunch or dinner is Belondrade y Lurton. The wine is 100% verdejo grapes, full bodied with nice citrus and a bit of fennel. Belondrade also makes Quinta Apolonia, a white also worth enjoying but less full bodied. Jose Pariente is another provider of good Spanish white whites. Though locals are aggressively marketing the Ibizencan wines, they are not particularly interesting. Try, if you like, but there is work to be done before they are worth drinking over Belondrade or Jose Pariente.
Regarding reservations, one MUST book well in advance for restaurants and beach venues, particularly in July and August. When booking on the beach, make sure you book sun loungers (hamacas) when you book your table. At some places, like Es Torrent, you will be asked to order your main course for the group one day in advance. Don’t fret, see notes below.
Don’t even attempt to drive after a few drinks. Taxis and car services are readily available nowadays and, as the roads are very dark at night around the island, it just is not worth it. During July and August, the regional police, La Guardia Civil, set breathalyzer points at the roundabouts outside Ibiza, Santa Eulalia and San Antonio.
Sundays in August are a good day to stay local, recuperate from Saturday night and enjoy the pool, as the beaches are incredibly crowded by tourists and locals.
IBIZA (TOWN)
Dalt Vila
Dalt Villa
To dine in history – and a UNESCO world cultural heritage site - within the walls the old town of Dalt Vila my preference remains El Olivo (over La Oliva). Before dinner, I recommend walking through Dalt Vila to see the Cathedral and the Museum of Contemporary Art of Ibiza. No need for directions, as Dalt Vila is small and signs are everywhere – just walk to the top. A pre-dinner drink could be had at the Cocktail Bar at the hotel Mirador de Dalt Vila. Boutiques selling a range of wares from the truly artisanal to the frankly tacky are dotted around the route.
Hotel Mirador
An offseason favorite in Ibiza just below the old town is Ca N’Alfredo, specializing in Mediterranean and Ibicencan dishes. Call +34 917311274
For tapas - just on the main square of Ibiza town - Vara del Rey, where the Viceroy lived and governed in his day, is La Cava, a place that is a must for those that want tapas and a good glass of wine. It is adjacent to the hotel Montesol, a local landmark (due to location, more than luxury). Call +34 97131 6074
Marinas – Ibiza Nueva, Botafoch
The best show in town . . . LIO, translated into English as a “mess” might have been so, when Pacha owner Ricardo Urgell, and Chief Artistic Director, Francisco Ferrer, and team created Lio to open in 2011, but it is now the most dynamic show/supper club on the island. It is located on the old site of el Divino in Ibiza Nueva marina, with stunning views of Dalt Vila and the Marina. It brings out a beautiful and eclectic crowd to see top singers, dancers and acrobats. Food is solid, but the show, music, ambience and service is what you are going for; my personal favorites are the salmon and the braised meat. Call +34 971310022
Cipriani opened this season in Ibiza, as Downtown Ibiza, and is located in the Gran Hotel.
Cipriani
The fact that owner Guiseppe Cipriani, and long time maitre from New York, London and Istanbul, Mauro Manfe, have moved to the island, suggests that this is not for the short term even though the Ibiza high-season is a short one. It has the traditional Cipriani menu with the added interest of good quality sushi. The décor is very tasteful, like being in a classic Italian boat, think Riva, and the service is the best I have seen on the island, bar none (they imported a lot of staff both in the front of house and back.). With such management, food, service and a cosmopolitan crowd, it is a required visit during one’s stay. Call +34 971599050
The Botafoch Marina includes a number of restaurants and shops. The best restaurants are Madrigal, owned and operated by an owner of Juan y Andrea (Formentera) with a magical view of Dalt Vila, and Trattoria del Mare, as sadly La Raspa has closed (Denis, Rest in Peace.) Madrigal focuses on the best of the Mediterranean and Spain. My favorites include the anchovies to start, followed by either sea bass (lubina) or sea bream (dorada) baked in salt, e.g. lubina a la sal or dorada a la sal. Call +34 971 311 107 Trattoria is, as the name suggests, good Italian fare in a waterside environment, al fresco.
Pacha needs no introduction, and the go-to night this summer is Thursday with David Guetta. If you are feeling like Sushi, Pacha’s sushi restaurant, Shushi Lounge, is a good pre-party option.
Pacha
JUST OUT OF TOWN (IBIZA)
On the road from Ibiza to Santa Eulalia, turn off towards Santa Gertrudis
Ama Lur has that magical mix of setting, food and service, that makes it a must visit in Ibiza. The food is more typically Basque, where the owners are from. Juan Felix, Emilio and their team, who have worked several years together are family to us, and Ama Lur has been the site of many special family occasions. My personal favorites are grilled grouper (mero), hake (merluza) or carpaccio. Keep it simple, and stay away from Juan Felix’s version of a martini. It is a killer. Call +34 971314554
Another enjoyable place is La Masia d’en Sort, for an evening dinner al fresco. They specialize in grilled meat and fish. Think good steak.
COUNTRYSIDE
Central
A visit to Santa Gertrudis for a morning coffee or a casual dinner is highly recommended. It is one of the most picturesque village squares in Ibiza (La Plaza de Santa Gertrudis). You can’t go wrong with any of the cafes in front of the local church in the late morning, early evening or ahead of the weekly Sunday noon mass for coffee and toast with tomato (pan con tomate). For dinner, Macao Café, an Italian trattoria, serves some of the island’s best Italian food. Sunday nights are particularly enjoyable on the outdoor terrace, but ensure to book well ahead of time. Their veal Milanese is top notch. This is a great venue to take children.
Another local favourite for Italian served in a setting among the trees with vegetables used from the restaurant's own garden is La Paloma, located in the lovely village of San Lorenzo. La Paloma is a good alternative with small children, as the staff, some English, some Spanish, some Italian, some Argentine, is very child-friendly.
North, North-East
San Carlos is another picturesque village, my favorite I admit, one that is made up of the local church, a bar - the famous Bar Anita, a bank, a few shops and a nice playground for children. It is very much worth a visit, particularly if one is visiting the hippy market at Las Dalias or heading to one of the picturesque beaches in the North (Cala Boix). Bar Anita is worth a visit for local hierbas, a liquor typical of the island. The food is very average and the service is too, so best for hierbas or late morning coffee, not much more.
A stone’s throw from San Carlos and behind Las Dalias hippy market is Can Curreu, in my opinion the nicest country agroturismo hotel on the island. For those not staying there, dinner is worthwhile. The food is good, the wine list decent and served in a serene and very pretty setting. Can Curreu is a good option for a night, that one wants some downtime from the energy of Ibiza (town).
For the carnivore, who enjoys good, simple meat and potatoes (but local potatoes and Spanish beef), Cami de Balafia, is a must. It is located north of Ibiza (town), on the road to San Juan and worth the trip for a quiet dinner.
North-West
For the Spanish tortilla lover, a visit to Can Cosme in Santa Ines will make you happy, though expect a no-frills experience, possibly best reserved for an off-season visit.
Can Cosmi
West
For pre- or post-dinner drinks, KM5 is a local favorite along the road to San Jose at km 5.6, outside Ibiza (town).
KM5
BEACHES
South
As beach restaurants (chiringuitos) go, my favorite is Es Torrent (San Jose, South. Call +34 971802160 , for its food, staff and the fact that due to the small cove, it can not get overly crowded (a problem in August in places like Las Salinas). As a result, booking 3-4 days in advance during July and August is a must. Here they will ask for your entrée 1 day before arrival, and the fideua is the best on the island. For a lighter meal, one can ask for lubina or dorada a la sal. Begin the meal with gambas ibicencas and raiones, a local fish caught in late August/early September, pan fried. Order your hamacas, when you book your reservation. Pepe is the man to know for hamacas on the beach. You cannot miss him in his yellow shirt and bronzed skin. For surfers, this is the place for some waves in Ibiza but best in May and October.
As far as beach restaurants and beaches go, my children’s favorite is Tropicana on Cala Jondal (cala means cove) where owner, Antonio, and Leo, who manages the beach, make for a great family day out. Here I prefer fresh fish. The paddle boats are favorites for young children. Note - best price for Belondrade at any chiringuito. Call +34 629348012, a must see.
The lovely cove of Cala Jondal (San Jose, post Airport, South), has several other beach options in addition to Tropicana, the sandiest and most child friendly beach, such as the glitzy Blue Marlin, a relatively new restaurant that attracts those yearning for the music of Ibiza by day, where the deck chairs are lined up nearly on top of one another in what seems to be incalculable rows. Blue Marlin is worth a visit, food is solid, music good, but not great if you have children in tow. Sundays are the most popular, but expect to be charged large minimum spends per beach chair. Call +34 971410117
Es Xarcu is a beach shack, but a very good beach shack, just around the bend from Cala Jondal, in the direction of Porroig. The beach is limited, so don't expect a prime swim location, but do expect excellent food, dining almost literally over the water. Though it is a shack, do not expect an inexpensive meal. In fact, many criticize that it is too expensive for a beach shack, but one can be selective with what to eat and drink. Here the gambas ibicencas are good, but pricey.
El Chiringuito des Cavallet (Es Cavallet, South) serves a great lunch with food that is more oriented towards creative Mediterranean than local rustic. In design it is more typical of the South of France than Ibiza - - - white, white, white. Well worth a visit for lunch, but the beach area is not one of Ibiza’s best, as it tends to get an accumulation of seaweed – and is also a nudist beach. It is worth a visit for beach volleyball enthusiasts, as well. Award for the best car park team on the island led by Javi. Call +34 971395355
Sa Caleta beach (San Jose, South) and its local restaurant are picturesque, a recognizable Mediterranean scene. Expect rustic and very pretty. If you want to get away from Ibiza scene for a local one, this is one place to do so.
West
For a view of the magical rocks of Es Vedra, even prettier by boat, lunch at Es Boldado along Cala D’ Hort (San Jose, Southwest) is special and serene. Local fresh fish and seafood, fished along the Ibicencan coast, combined with local produce is a perfect combination.
For those that like to set out and explore, the beaches in the west of the island, I recommend Cala Vadella, good for kids, Cala Codolar and Cala Tarida. Food varies at each, though.
North, North-East
For a local beach day in the north (East of San Carlos, once you pass Bar Anita) with great food and no hype, the combination of Cala Boix and La Noria is one of my favorites. Though there are several stairs down to the beach, it is a picturesque spot for a swim. Follow the swim up with fresh fish at La Noria with service by Juan Antonio and magical views over the sea – all around great value.
S’Illot is located in one of the most picturesque coves in the island, Cala Xuclar, located between Cala Xaracca and the town of Portinatx at the most northern point of the island. S'Illot is nothing fancy, which is its charm. The beach just below the restaurant is a must for those that like to swim and snorkel with the fish. If you reach Portinatx, you have gone too far; it is, unfortunately, a town that has been overdeveloped and detracts from the island's beauty (like Es Cana and San Antonio).
For those that want to explore the beaches in the North and find a good swimming hole, I recommend Cala D’en Serra, as well, though the beach restaurant is not comparable to La Noria or those in the South. Enjoy the swims and scenery.
Formentera
Gorgeous Formentera
Formentera is priceless, particularly the beach of Illetas, a long white sandy beach. There are two alternatives for travel, private boats, which can be chartered in Marina Botafoch, as well as the Marina de Santa Eulalia or by ferry from Ibiza. The ideal is by private boat, so that one can explore the many coves of Formentera or swim off the rock of Espalmador, but for a first visit (and repeats), the ferry is a simple, reasonable option, that I find useful, particularly with smaller children, that get sea-sick. It takes but 25 minutes from port to port and leaves out of the port of Ibiza, conveniently located nearly across from the new town car park.
My favorite restaurants are two, depending upon one’s mood.
For “I want priceless views of the Mediterranean sea and Ibiza with white linens, outstanding food and service”, I recommend Es Moli de Sal, owned and operated by Jonny, a wonderful host. Call +34 971187491.
Es Moli de Sal
I first went nearly 12 years ago, but until this summer I had not been back in the last 6 years. I was back this July, twice. It has the best paella de bogavante in the Pitiusas, for me, and a lovely little cove to bath after lunch – no sandy beach, though.
For “I want my feet in the sand” effect . . . there is no better place than Juan y Andrea. My first visit was 15 years ago, and a lot has changed. It has been found by the very big yachts. The restaurant has become the go-to restaurant in Formentera, for everyone looking for celebrities and pretty faces. It remains a wonderful place, though, as it is on an incomparable white beach, where in front the water is blue and clear, like the Caribbean. You will still eat well, but times have changed, and I have found that one needs to set expectations on food and service, as it can vary, from outstanding to average, depending on the day and the mood of the kitchen and staff. Juanjo, now managing the front of house since his older brother Andres opened Madrigal in Ibiza, remains a wonderful host. Children will enjoy the shallow water and the electric boats, managed by Tano. Call +34 371787130
SHOPPING
There are a handful of special places to shop in Ibiza, but the most special are at those places where you can find something, that you cannot find in London or New York.
Nino d’Agata is a very talented goldsmith, making some beautiful pieces. He creates his own collection, but the most fun is to design something with Nino for him to create in bespoke fashion. Nino is located in La Plaza de la Iglesia de Santa Gertrudis and only open selectively from 11-2 and 8-10PM.
The old port area of Ibiza town is worth a visit to browse among shops that are often unique to the island. Ibiza has its own fashion council called Moda Adlib (motto – dress how you like but dress tastefully) which supports a cottage industry of designers and producers that work with white cotton and lace to produce flowy and ethereal numbers that perfectly complement the boho vibe on the island. Several designers have shops in this neighbourhood.
Campos de Ibiza
Other quirky shops to look out for are the Sandal shop – which works leather, Campos de Ibiza, which has tried to bottle the essence of the island into bath products and candles and Ganesha – whose owner Vicente imports fabrics from India and reworks them into wraps and dresses, as well as selling vintage clothing that might include a matador costume. You’ll also stumble across several places selling baskets and espadrilles and other local handiwork.
All of this in addition, of course, to Spanish high-street stars like Mango and Zara and boutiques such as Galy, Mayurka and Arias that carry global designer brands – carefully edited for the Ibiza wow factor.
R. Enserro